Escapade 14-The Difficult Choice

In terms of travel, sometimes we are face with difficult choices.  The choice might be whether I should stay in the $3 a night room or splurge on the $6 room (as was my choice tonight in Uganda-although the other three countries were about 5 times as expensive for hotel rooms-it is just ridiculous for me to pay $20 for a room!!!)

However, the decision to visit Rwanda was a difficult one.  It is the fourth country I have visited that has had a hand in genocide.  In 1995, I visited Turkey, a wonderful country, but one that still doesn't admit to its attempted killings of all the Armenians within its borders 100 years ago.  In 2002, I visited Cambodia, where the Khmer Rouge decimated its own population in 1970's, and last year, I spent three days in Berlin.

Should I visit a country in which such horrors were perpetrated, knowing full well that in cases of the more recent genocides, I might actually meet or spend time with people who committed those horrors?  On the other hand, what if I want to show my support of the ongoing commitment of that country toward better itself?  Shouldn't I spend my time and money and offer my support as such a county recommits itself toward aiding its citizens?  I don't know the right answer, although it is obvious by my decision that I prefer the latter answer. 

In the case of all four, I would have never realized the atrocities committed in these countries, if I had not consciously decided to visit museums and memorial sites.  It is a little disconcerting to see everyone going about their business, when one realizes the past horrors visited by and upon these people.  In the case of Berlin, they have devoted quite a bit of time and space toward recognizing and remembering its past.  There are giant memorials and museums scattered around the city.  When I visited Cambodia, they had just begun to open the county to tourists (much of the country was stilled mined), but I still found tours available to visit memorial sites such as the Killing Fields.  As I mentioned, I had no idea that Turkey had been involved in any such atrocity when I visited.  By the way as terrible it may sound, I truly enjoyed visiting all three countries, despite their horrible pasts.  Cambodia and Berlin especially wanted to honor the memory of the past, while living in the present.

I found Rwanda in pretty much the same situation.  If it were not for the few memorial sites in the country, I would not have known what happened her, which was a still a little surprising, even after visiting these other three countries in the past.  After all, the tragedy occurred here only 17 years ago.  So what were my overall impressions of Rwanda.  What an amazing place to visit!!!

First of all, the country is just beautiful, with lush hillside views everywhere.  The locals call it the country of a thousand hills, and they would be right.  Everywhere you go, there are lush green mountains or hills.  It's never ending.  The entire country is one big photo-op.  Thank goodness I didn't need to bicycle around the country, although I did see the Rwandan bicycling team speed by me, as they waved.  And I even met their French bicycle mechanic in Mesanze.

Secondly, it feels here much safer than Kenya and Tanzania, despite its reputation.  Although I didn't feel threatened in either of these countries, in Rwanda, I felt comfortable walking around at night in its biggest Kigali.  It just seems as if the people want to ensure that its few visitors enjoy their stay, which brings me to number three.

There are no where near as many tourists here as in Tanzania and Kenya.  Now, I must admit that in many places in both of these countries, I saw few if any tourists.  However even in Kigali, its major city, I could count the number of tourists I encountered over several days on one hand.  Rwanda continues to actively seek visitors, and I think soon the country will begin to see an increase in its tourist industry, because...

It's just so.....clean.  That's right.  As I entered Uganda today, I immediately saw the difference between Rwanda and Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda.  It is less dusty.  It's roads are better, and everywhere you go all you see are beautifully kept gardens (and I mean everywhere).  It seems as if the government require its people to keep the outside of their homes and offices clean and further requires them to keep their gardens pristine.  And guess what, I woke up last Saturday morning at 7:00am to take advantage of some walking around time in the city of Mesanze, and the desk clerk told me I might as well stay at the hotel, because everything was closed.  Why?  Because on the last Saturday of every month, every store, shopping area, bus, cab, and restaurant must stay closed until noon.  That's right!  Everyone in the country is required by law to work on keeping their community clean.  They must tend to their own gardens or to the outside of their own homes.  They must also participate in community enhancement projects, such as tending to the city's gardens, fixing up old city buildings and so forth.  As I walked around Saturday morning, I even noticed  police officers walking from place to place, checking to see if people were fulfilling their civic duty.

We can debate all day as to whether a government should require its citizens to participate in civic duty in this way, but the difference between Rwanda and the other three East African countries nearby is obvious.  From what I gathered in visiting with people during my short time there, people are less concerned with these issues and just happy to have a sense of calm and stability.

I, personally, had a wonderful visit.  Most of Rwanda's tourist seem to come into the country just to visit with the country's most famous citizens, its gorillas.  After spending time with these wonderful citizens, the tourists then return to Kenya or Tanzania or maybe Uganda.  It is such a small country, that it is easy to come in for a day or two just to see these amazing creatures.

However, I think more and more people will begin to trickle and trickle through its borders as the word spreads as to the wonders of current Rwanda.